A Warsaw city guide

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We arrived in Warsaw on International Women's Day in the middle of a protest, thousands of women walking through the centre of the city holding placards and carrying flowers.

Warsaw isn't exactly pretty but there's something about it, an energy. It's an exciting place to be. Architecturally, it's a jumble of a city. It was almost completely destroyed in World War II and has been gradually re-built in a mishmash of different styles, communist-style blocks and restored gothic and baroque palaces and churches.

We stayed in Mokotów for a month, a great up-and-coming area next to Łazienki park.

Old Town

The Old Town is so different from the rest of the city, with its colourful 15th century buildings, village feel and cobbled streets. It's undoubtedly touristy, but a beautiful place to wander around.

Warsaw's Old Town

So colourful! Cobbled streets

Palace of Culture and Science

Built in 1955, this Stalinist high rise was a gift to Poland from the Soviet Union. It's known as the 'Eighth Sister' (there are seven similar towers dotted around Moscow) and is still somewhat controversial in Warsaw due to its history. Inside is a whole range of museums, theatres, libraries and cafes.

The Eight Sister All lit up

Lazienki Park

Our apartment was very close to Łazienki Park and we must have gone there almost every day. It's a great place for a run or a walk in the sunshine and if you're lucky you might spot the peacocks.

Peacock spotting Łazienki Park

Coffee shops

Cakes at Stor

Relaks cafe

Our favourite cafe


Just a few of the signs

More neon!

Gordon Parks


Inside the farmers' market

So many vegetables

Where to eat

My favourite meal in Warsaw

Dumplings in a milk bar

Stuffed cabbage

The best pierogi

Wood-fired pizza

Ramen at MOD

Polish doughnuts

For more on Poland, have a look at my post on fun things to do in Kraków.